Early Sunday morning (September 19th) Corrie and I met up with Sonya – a German woman Corrie’s been talking with who lives in Gori – to go to Tbilisi. We went to the bazroba and purchased tickets for the bus to the city (the marshrutkas are scary…). It ended up taking just a little over an hour to get into Tbilisi, which is great! I think Tbilisi trips will be quite frequent. We parted ways with Sonya on the metro – oh, metro, how I have missed thee – and meandered down Rustaveli (the main road) until we found an English-language bookshop. Everything was quite expensive, so we left and met up with Chase, who was in town, and two of the newly arrived Fulbrighters – Michaela and Ryan – for lunch. I had some random Georgian dish which ended up being essentially an entire chicken in broth (grease?). It was delicious in small quantities, but kind of overwhelming. We then found Sonya again, who showed all of us Goodwilli – one of the main supermarkets in Tbilisi – where we left the others before heading to an international church. The service was a lot of fun. People had Bibles in English, Georgian, Russian, Persian, and a number of other languages. We met some really great people and chatted for a bit before running to the bus station to catch the last bus back to Gori.
The next morning, I observed some classes at one of my schools before meeting up with some students and teachers to prepare for the Ambassador’s visit on Tuesday. The visit went very well, I believe. The kids were engaging and asked great questions. I was on TV, which was quite uncomfortable but funny, too.
Sophie and Saul, our embassy contacts, came with the ambassador. They brought us peanut butter, fig newtons, and contact solution – all things we had jokingly asked them to find for us. So, much love to them. Next time I am going to come up with some more outlandish request and see if they can get it for me… A turkey for Thanksgiving? A pet pygmy bunny named Waffle?
I spent the rest of the week observing classes and meeting with teachers. And then…our hiking adventure!
Wednesday, September 29, 2010
Thursday, September 23, 2010
Old McDonald Had a Farm...
One of my classes is currently enamored with Old McDonald. Of all the children's songs to be excited about, I guess it's not the worst. If you are interested in learning how to say "duck" in English. But I find it quite fitting now. Every morning on my way to work, this old man walks across the main road through town, across the playground in front of my apartment and through the apartment complex with a herd of cows. And every night he heads back the other way with sheep and goats. He has a rucksack on his back and a stick he herds the the animals with. It's quite an unusual sight - an ages-old profession taking place through a busy, metropolitan area - but one which is quite fitting for Gori and Georgia. It's a strange mix of old and new. Old babooshkas peddling homegrown fruit from the village and talking on cell phones. Young people in traditional dress, dancing traditional dances to Lady Gaga and Vanilla Ice. Old men herding cows across the highway. I do like it here. I think Old McDonald's going on my ipod. In the spirit of old and new, of course.
Wednesday, September 22, 2010
Links
For those of you not on Facebook, here are the links to an article and a news story about different things going on in Georgia.
The first link is to a short article on the U.S. Embassy website about a reception the Charge d'Affaires hosted for the Fulbrighters and ELFs when we arrived in Tbilisi. http://georgia.usembassy.gov/programs-and-events/embassy-news-2010/charge-daffaires-logsdon-welcomes-english-language-fellows-september-13.html
The second link is to a news story that aired yesterday in Gori (it's all in Georgian, sorry!). The Ambassador came to one of the schools I am working at and met some of the students and teachers. They interviewed me for it and the interview talks a bit about both of our programs. I look kind of ill and really nervous, but, hey, what can you do? http://trialeti.ge/index.php?lang_id=GEO&sec_id=25&info_id=934
I'll post some more info. about my trip to Tbilisi and the Ambassador's visit later.
The first link is to a short article on the U.S. Embassy website about a reception the Charge d'Affaires hosted for the Fulbrighters and ELFs when we arrived in Tbilisi. http://georgia.usembassy.gov/programs-and-events/embassy-news-2010/charge-daffaires-logsdon-welcomes-english-language-fellows-september-13.html
The second link is to a news story that aired yesterday in Gori (it's all in Georgian, sorry!). The Ambassador came to one of the schools I am working at and met some of the students and teachers. They interviewed me for it and the interview talks a bit about both of our programs. I look kind of ill and really nervous, but, hey, what can you do? http://trialeti.ge/index.php?lang_id=GEO&sec_id=25&info_id=934
I'll post some more info. about my trip to Tbilisi and the Ambassador's visit later.
Tuesday, September 21, 2010
Onwards
What a busy few days! We woke up early (well, early by Georgian standards) Wednesday morning for our first day of school! I love first days… Anyways, we went to one of the schools I will be teaching at, and were in time for the school’s opening ceremony. It was so much fun! All the students – from first grade to twelfth – stood outside the school while some of the students performed. They sung, did some really neat Georgian dances, and recited poetry. All the kids were really excited and were dancing and swaying to the music. It felt like a rock concert, except that everyone there was about 7. Sophie introduced Corrie and I to the student body and then, after dumping a ton of balloons on the crowd, it was a beeline for the entrance. OK, I know I’m small, but it shouldn’t be possible for me to be run over by elementary schoolers…
After we finally found our way to the teacher lounge (a little worse for wear), we met the director and all of the teachers I will be working with. The director is this very elegant lady who seems very nice, though she doesn’t speak English. As Georgians absolutely love there cake, there was, of course, this massive cake shaped like a book. And as an accompaniment, this extremely strong homemade liquor. At 9am. In the teacher’s lounge. At school. We're not in Kansas anymore... :D
After we left the first school, we went to my second school – this fabulously pink building right across from Stalin’s Museum. We met up with one of the teachers I will be working with (who we had met in Tbilisi) and talked for a bit. I meet with her again today to work out my schedule.
Finally, Sophie took us to the American Corner –an American resource center – where I will probably be holding most of my clubs. It’s still being renovated and won’t be open until mid-October, so that will give me some time to get used to everything. Once again, everyone was extremely kind and gracious. Nobody speaks English there, so our conversations are an interesting mix of Russian, English and Georgian.
After finally deciding on an apartment (with the help of the trusty coin flip), Sophie left us to head back to Tbilisi. She was such a great help! With still a good part of the day left, Corrie and I decided to familiarize ourselves with Gori. We walked around and got lavashi (flat bread) and fruit for dinner. A grand total of $1 for both of us. Nice, no? All the Fulbrighters were right when they said we’ll never be able to eat fruit back home again…
The next day (Thursday), Corrie and I were woken up by one of the ladies at the hotel with a call for “bREak fest.” Georgians are serious about their breakfast. We decided to walk around the bazaar, which is awesome. It’s like a mini version of Izmailovo, but very cheap. I’m going to be so happy there. After much trial and error, we found a little stand selling soup with kasha, bread, and lemonade (all fruit drinks are called lemonade) – a total of $2 for two of us. They were so excited that we are Americans and unabashedly stared at us the entire meal (that is becoming quite a common thing…) Then, after a quick rest, we went to one of the parks and got a dinner of stuffed lavashi, fruit, and tomatoes for $1.50. I like cheap, delicious food.
Our apartment is very nice. It's near the edge of the center of town (does that make any sense?) in a neighbor by the river. It has a playground and a little store and gardens all around it. Apparently, there is also a French person and an Italian somewhere in the complex as well.
Friday was a nice break. We woke up late, to another call of “bREak fast” and then walked around the city for a bit. I think I have now officially walked down every street in Gori. We stopped for lunch at this little shop by the bazaar and met this Turkish guy there. We talked for a long while (well, I mostly just listened – I’ve suddenly become shy) before heading off to meet our host family and move into our apartment! Yay! My room was very pink and has lots of stuffed toys around, so after a little doctoring, it’s finally starting to feel like home. Corrie and I went for a quick trip to Populi (the western style store in the city) and then made a delicious dinner of homemade kinkali and lavishi. OK, so we just boiled frozen kinkali and bought lavashi from the store, but still, I’m impressed with us. :)
Today (Saturday), we met with some of the teachers from one of my schools to ask questions and prepare for the ambassador’s visit. Oh, yeah, did I mention that the Ambassador’s coming? He’s coming this week for a quick visit. That’s fun to say. Even if there will be media. Ick. I am not all too fond of all the cameramen running around. Who can act natural with a camera stuck in their face? But still, come on, how many people can say that they hosted an Ambassador.
Normally, I don’t think Fulbrighters are quite this connected with the Embassy. In fact, I’ve never really heard of Fulbrighters doing anything with them before. However, Georgia is currently in the midst of a new initiative in which the Georgian government is trying to hire 1000 native English speakers to teach English in Georgian schools. It’s all in an effort to make English, not Russian, the second language. As FETA and ELFs, we are separate from this program and a way for the U.S. government to show that they support Georgia’s initiative and hope to be partners with them in the change. Hence, the media. Makes me feel nervous but, hey, I’m here on the government’s dime. They might as well use us, right?
Anyways, since Corrie and I are the only Americans in Gori, and since I am the only one working in the schools themselves, the teachers want me to do as many different groups as possible. So it looks like I will teach about 20 different classes/cohorts a week (in two school – 10 in each). That way, I will visit each particular cohort about once a month. Unfortunately, I will not have a lot of time with two or three groups, so I’m going to have to come up with some way to make those 45 minutes a month count. Any suggestions? I will be running a few clubs, but I’m afraid they might become too crowded very quickly. I guess we’ll see…
After the meeting, Bobby (our main contact at one of the schools) showed us the best places to buy salads, khachapuri, and cake in the city before heading home. Corrie and I then went to the market and did some more shopping. I’m really going to have to learn Georgian quickly in order to be able to bargain. My brain has been a sieve lately and I just can’t seem to grasp any words or concepts. Hopefully, once I get a bit more settled in and get over this cold (blech), I’ll be able to concentrate on learning the language. Corrie knows quite a bit more than me, so she’s been acting as my translator…and bodyguard… I’m her secretary and navigator, so together we make a halfway competent person. Urrah!
We arrive home, exhausted and just ready to take a nap. The neighbors had their door open, so we nodded a “gamargoba” (hello) and went ready to go inside. Next thing I know, I am ensconced at their kitchen table with a cup of Turkish q’ava (coffee), cake and k’ili (fruit). Neither our neighbor nor her husband speak English or Russian. Her brother speaks Russian and he was over for a visit, so we had another very interesting Russian-Georgian-English conversation. I really need to find a Georgian teacher…
Later, our landlady came by with her brother who speaks fluent English. We chatted for a bit over tea and cookies and they invited us to the grape harvest in their village later on in the month. That should be so much fun! Tomorrow, it’s off to Tbilisi for some fun, book shopping, and church. Then, preparing for the Ambassador! Until then, nakvamdis!
After we finally found our way to the teacher lounge (a little worse for wear), we met the director and all of the teachers I will be working with. The director is this very elegant lady who seems very nice, though she doesn’t speak English. As Georgians absolutely love there cake, there was, of course, this massive cake shaped like a book. And as an accompaniment, this extremely strong homemade liquor. At 9am. In the teacher’s lounge. At school. We're not in Kansas anymore... :D
After we left the first school, we went to my second school – this fabulously pink building right across from Stalin’s Museum. We met up with one of the teachers I will be working with (who we had met in Tbilisi) and talked for a bit. I meet with her again today to work out my schedule.
Finally, Sophie took us to the American Corner –an American resource center – where I will probably be holding most of my clubs. It’s still being renovated and won’t be open until mid-October, so that will give me some time to get used to everything. Once again, everyone was extremely kind and gracious. Nobody speaks English there, so our conversations are an interesting mix of Russian, English and Georgian.
After finally deciding on an apartment (with the help of the trusty coin flip), Sophie left us to head back to Tbilisi. She was such a great help! With still a good part of the day left, Corrie and I decided to familiarize ourselves with Gori. We walked around and got lavashi (flat bread) and fruit for dinner. A grand total of $1 for both of us. Nice, no? All the Fulbrighters were right when they said we’ll never be able to eat fruit back home again…
The next day (Thursday), Corrie and I were woken up by one of the ladies at the hotel with a call for “bREak fest.” Georgians are serious about their breakfast. We decided to walk around the bazaar, which is awesome. It’s like a mini version of Izmailovo, but very cheap. I’m going to be so happy there. After much trial and error, we found a little stand selling soup with kasha, bread, and lemonade (all fruit drinks are called lemonade) – a total of $2 for two of us. They were so excited that we are Americans and unabashedly stared at us the entire meal (that is becoming quite a common thing…) Then, after a quick rest, we went to one of the parks and got a dinner of stuffed lavashi, fruit, and tomatoes for $1.50. I like cheap, delicious food.
Our apartment is very nice. It's near the edge of the center of town (does that make any sense?) in a neighbor by the river. It has a playground and a little store and gardens all around it. Apparently, there is also a French person and an Italian somewhere in the complex as well.
Friday was a nice break. We woke up late, to another call of “bREak fast” and then walked around the city for a bit. I think I have now officially walked down every street in Gori. We stopped for lunch at this little shop by the bazaar and met this Turkish guy there. We talked for a long while (well, I mostly just listened – I’ve suddenly become shy) before heading off to meet our host family and move into our apartment! Yay! My room was very pink and has lots of stuffed toys around, so after a little doctoring, it’s finally starting to feel like home. Corrie and I went for a quick trip to Populi (the western style store in the city) and then made a delicious dinner of homemade kinkali and lavishi. OK, so we just boiled frozen kinkali and bought lavashi from the store, but still, I’m impressed with us. :)
Today (Saturday), we met with some of the teachers from one of my schools to ask questions and prepare for the ambassador’s visit. Oh, yeah, did I mention that the Ambassador’s coming? He’s coming this week for a quick visit. That’s fun to say. Even if there will be media. Ick. I am not all too fond of all the cameramen running around. Who can act natural with a camera stuck in their face? But still, come on, how many people can say that they hosted an Ambassador.
Normally, I don’t think Fulbrighters are quite this connected with the Embassy. In fact, I’ve never really heard of Fulbrighters doing anything with them before. However, Georgia is currently in the midst of a new initiative in which the Georgian government is trying to hire 1000 native English speakers to teach English in Georgian schools. It’s all in an effort to make English, not Russian, the second language. As FETA and ELFs, we are separate from this program and a way for the U.S. government to show that they support Georgia’s initiative and hope to be partners with them in the change. Hence, the media. Makes me feel nervous but, hey, I’m here on the government’s dime. They might as well use us, right?
Anyways, since Corrie and I are the only Americans in Gori, and since I am the only one working in the schools themselves, the teachers want me to do as many different groups as possible. So it looks like I will teach about 20 different classes/cohorts a week (in two school – 10 in each). That way, I will visit each particular cohort about once a month. Unfortunately, I will not have a lot of time with two or three groups, so I’m going to have to come up with some way to make those 45 minutes a month count. Any suggestions? I will be running a few clubs, but I’m afraid they might become too crowded very quickly. I guess we’ll see…
After the meeting, Bobby (our main contact at one of the schools) showed us the best places to buy salads, khachapuri, and cake in the city before heading home. Corrie and I then went to the market and did some more shopping. I’m really going to have to learn Georgian quickly in order to be able to bargain. My brain has been a sieve lately and I just can’t seem to grasp any words or concepts. Hopefully, once I get a bit more settled in and get over this cold (blech), I’ll be able to concentrate on learning the language. Corrie knows quite a bit more than me, so she’s been acting as my translator…and bodyguard… I’m her secretary and navigator, so together we make a halfway competent person. Urrah!
We arrive home, exhausted and just ready to take a nap. The neighbors had their door open, so we nodded a “gamargoba” (hello) and went ready to go inside. Next thing I know, I am ensconced at their kitchen table with a cup of Turkish q’ava (coffee), cake and k’ili (fruit). Neither our neighbor nor her husband speak English or Russian. Her brother speaks Russian and he was over for a visit, so we had another very interesting Russian-Georgian-English conversation. I really need to find a Georgian teacher…
Later, our landlady came by with her brother who speaks fluent English. We chatted for a bit over tea and cookies and they invited us to the grape harvest in their village later on in the month. That should be so much fun! Tomorrow, it’s off to Tbilisi for some fun, book shopping, and church. Then, preparing for the Ambassador! Until then, nakvamdis!
Tuesday, September 14, 2010
Gori at Last!
Wow, what a day! Woke up bright and early to say goodbye and head off to our respective cities. Corrie and U are very lucky in that Gori is only a 40 minute from Tbilisi. They also just renovated the highway on the way there, so the trip is very pleasant. Everyone else wasn’t so fortunate. Chase and Ben went to Kutaisi – a 2ish hour drive – while Caroline and Peg went to Zugdidi – a 4 hour drive. While that’s not all that bad, driving is different in Georgia. Apparently, the most dangerous thing about living in Georgia is the driving. Frankly, it’s terrifying. It’s even worse outside the cities since there is generally only a one-way road. And there are no rules of the road. Apparently, everyone saw about 4 accidents with 3 fatalities on the way there. So, we’re very very lucky.
On a brighter note, Gori is great! It’s old and quaint and has this wonderful small town feel to it. Apparently, you can walk the entire city in less than an hour. As soon as we got there, we dropped off our luggage and then were whisked away to the Education Resource Center (ERC) – Corrie’s home base – to meet some people.
Apparently, everyone is extremely excited to have us because the place was packed. Corrie and I were placed in the front of the room facing everyone while Sophie (our amazing Embassy escort – she’s absolutely fabulous) introduced us and our purpose. I’m a little nervous about the position, mostly because I am new to this experience and want to make a good impression with people who have been teaching for decades. So, I felt kind of like an exhibit in a museum, but everyone was extremely nice and gracious.
We then gave a little blurb about ourselves and then met the teachers. I’m going to be so busy! I am assigned to two schools, but everyone is so excited about us being here and want to learn about America. So it looks like I’m going to be going to all these schools, running tons of programs, and doing workshops all the time. Aaah, I’m not going to have time for everything! I understand what everyone was talking about when they said that sometimes you just need to say no.
After we left the ERC, we did some apartment hunting and had lunch where I attempted to eat some traditional meat dish (I’ve decided that I will at least try all their dishes even if they include meat) – yeah, I don’t like beef or pork, bad idea. After a little more apartment hunting, Sophie and David (our driver) took us outside the city to this lovely, 7th century cathedral in the mountains. It’s one of two of its kind left in the entire country. We went through this small little village – complete with little old ladies washing clothes in buckets outside, men pushing carts of hay, and donkeys and cows in the street. Apparently, Sophie is from that village (or very nearby)!
The cathedral was absolutely stunning. The US has helpd do some restoration and some of the original murals and frescos are still there (color, too!). All around this area are wild and cultivated fruits (that’s what that part of the region is known for). On our very short walk nto the church, there were fig, pears, blackberries, some other fruit trees I couldn’t identify, apples, grapes, and on and on. So, Corrie and I are planning to hike up there early one Sunday morning, go to one of the services in the church (it’s still active), and then have a picnic by the river at the church.
After we left,Sophie treated us to sweets and tea (yum) and we headed back to the hotel. After a little rest, we decided to meet up with this German girl Corrie’s been talking with who lives in Gori and see the city. We walked around for a bit and ran into an outdoor concert – a DJ and lights show. All in all, it was a overwhelming but exciting day. Tomorrow we go to the schools and the next day I start! Wish me luck!
On a brighter note, Gori is great! It’s old and quaint and has this wonderful small town feel to it. Apparently, you can walk the entire city in less than an hour. As soon as we got there, we dropped off our luggage and then were whisked away to the Education Resource Center (ERC) – Corrie’s home base – to meet some people.
Apparently, everyone is extremely excited to have us because the place was packed. Corrie and I were placed in the front of the room facing everyone while Sophie (our amazing Embassy escort – she’s absolutely fabulous) introduced us and our purpose. I’m a little nervous about the position, mostly because I am new to this experience and want to make a good impression with people who have been teaching for decades. So, I felt kind of like an exhibit in a museum, but everyone was extremely nice and gracious.
We then gave a little blurb about ourselves and then met the teachers. I’m going to be so busy! I am assigned to two schools, but everyone is so excited about us being here and want to learn about America. So it looks like I’m going to be going to all these schools, running tons of programs, and doing workshops all the time. Aaah, I’m not going to have time for everything! I understand what everyone was talking about when they said that sometimes you just need to say no.
After we left the ERC, we did some apartment hunting and had lunch where I attempted to eat some traditional meat dish (I’ve decided that I will at least try all their dishes even if they include meat) – yeah, I don’t like beef or pork, bad idea. After a little more apartment hunting, Sophie and David (our driver) took us outside the city to this lovely, 7th century cathedral in the mountains. It’s one of two of its kind left in the entire country. We went through this small little village – complete with little old ladies washing clothes in buckets outside, men pushing carts of hay, and donkeys and cows in the street. Apparently, Sophie is from that village (or very nearby)!
The cathedral was absolutely stunning. The US has helpd do some restoration and some of the original murals and frescos are still there (color, too!). All around this area are wild and cultivated fruits (that’s what that part of the region is known for). On our very short walk nto the church, there were fig, pears, blackberries, some other fruit trees I couldn’t identify, apples, grapes, and on and on. So, Corrie and I are planning to hike up there early one Sunday morning, go to one of the services in the church (it’s still active), and then have a picnic by the river at the church.
After we left,Sophie treated us to sweets and tea (yum) and we headed back to the hotel. After a little rest, we decided to meet up with this German girl Corrie’s been talking with who lives in Gori and see the city. We walked around for a bit and ran into an outdoor concert – a DJ and lights show. All in all, it was a overwhelming but exciting day. Tomorrow we go to the schools and the next day I start! Wish me luck!
Monday, September 13, 2010
I feel pretty, oh so pretty...
Well, today I’ve been on TV, been one of the guests of honor at a reception hosted by the Charges d’Affaires (the guy in charge of the embassy when the ambassador’s away), and mingled with governors and officials from the USA and Georgia. Why, you may ask? Because apparently, we are quite a big deal. Which I did not really know or expect until the 4-5 film crews came waltzing into our meeting. But let me start from the beginning.
Today was the first real day of the Fulbright. We left for the Embassy bright and early for a day of meetings and conferences. After going through the numerous security checkpoints and feeling like a criminal for carrying hand sanitizer, we had meetings about everything from security to health to exchange programs. We also were able to talk with the Charge since the Ambassador was out of town. And with the Charge can a news crew from every major TV station in Tbilisi. According to Saul, there were as many crews to meet us as there was at the Embassy’s massive 4th of July celebration. They filmed us for a bit and got us to speak to them about what we were doing (during which time I hid so I didn’t have to talk to them. Success!). Have you ever tried to have a productive, informative meeting with cameras in your face and film crews whispering amongst themselves about angles and lighting? Yeah, it’s hard.
You see, Georgia is currently doing a major initiative to make English the second language. They are planning to hire 1000 native English speakers to teach English in classrooms throughout Georgia. While the US cannot, in return, match those 1000 teachers, they can send Fulbrighters and ELFs (English Teaching Fellows) to support Georgian teachers, give workshops, teach teachers how to teach English (haha, that’s fun), and work in different centers around the country. That’s where my cohort and I come in. No pressure, right?
Anyways, after a generally exhausting day, we went to the Charge’s house for a reception in our honor. People came from all across Georgia to attend, including the Governor or Zugdidi (for those of you unfamiliar with Georgian geography, Zugdidi is on the other side of the country – about a 4+ hour drive). I was able to meet with some of the people I will be working with in Gori, which was wonderful.
I’ve always heard that Georgia is famous for its hospitality. They are so hospitable, in fact, many people refer to it as “hostile hospitality.” But you never quite understand what that means till you get there. People are bending over backwards to meet and talk with us. They have offered to host us whenever we travel; to take us skiing at a resort in the winter. It’s amazing. And they are so excited when you show an interest in their culture, history, language, etc. I’ve been warned that I will never be able to just sit at home because they will be inviting me to everything – I’m going to take them seriously this time.
So, that was today. Tomorrow, we leave for Gori bright and early to start our apartment search. And my bag’s still lost, so pajamas and leopard-print slippers it is!
Today was the first real day of the Fulbright. We left for the Embassy bright and early for a day of meetings and conferences. After going through the numerous security checkpoints and feeling like a criminal for carrying hand sanitizer, we had meetings about everything from security to health to exchange programs. We also were able to talk with the Charge since the Ambassador was out of town. And with the Charge can a news crew from every major TV station in Tbilisi. According to Saul, there were as many crews to meet us as there was at the Embassy’s massive 4th of July celebration. They filmed us for a bit and got us to speak to them about what we were doing (during which time I hid so I didn’t have to talk to them. Success!). Have you ever tried to have a productive, informative meeting with cameras in your face and film crews whispering amongst themselves about angles and lighting? Yeah, it’s hard.
You see, Georgia is currently doing a major initiative to make English the second language. They are planning to hire 1000 native English speakers to teach English in classrooms throughout Georgia. While the US cannot, in return, match those 1000 teachers, they can send Fulbrighters and ELFs (English Teaching Fellows) to support Georgian teachers, give workshops, teach teachers how to teach English (haha, that’s fun), and work in different centers around the country. That’s where my cohort and I come in. No pressure, right?
Anyways, after a generally exhausting day, we went to the Charge’s house for a reception in our honor. People came from all across Georgia to attend, including the Governor or Zugdidi (for those of you unfamiliar with Georgian geography, Zugdidi is on the other side of the country – about a 4+ hour drive). I was able to meet with some of the people I will be working with in Gori, which was wonderful.
I’ve always heard that Georgia is famous for its hospitality. They are so hospitable, in fact, many people refer to it as “hostile hospitality.” But you never quite understand what that means till you get there. People are bending over backwards to meet and talk with us. They have offered to host us whenever we travel; to take us skiing at a resort in the winter. It’s amazing. And they are so excited when you show an interest in their culture, history, language, etc. I’ve been warned that I will never be able to just sit at home because they will be inviting me to everything – I’m going to take them seriously this time.
So, that was today. Tomorrow, we leave for Gori bright and early to start our apartment search. And my bag’s still lost, so pajamas and leopard-print slippers it is!
Sunday, September 12, 2010
Tbilisi: Day Two
(First off, sorry for the typos. I don’t have my contacts on.)
Well, another day in Tbilisi. I woke up at noon, so I didn’t get out as early as I wanted, but am finally recovered. Met with some of the other Fulbrighters and Fellows for breakfast and got to know some of the new arrivals. Now everyone is here, and it seems to be a great group. Met Corrie, the English Fellow going to Gori with me, and she is a blast. Very sweet and a lot of fun. So yay!
After breakfast, a few of us took off to see the city. We walked down Rustavali, the major street in Tbilisi, Got to see some of the sights and went to a small market. The mix of beautiful, dilapidated old buildings and structures (And I mean old) and newer, also kind of dilapidated buildings is actually quite charming. Everything’s very beautiful and elegant. I wish I had more time here!
We met another person from the embassy and went shopping for phones. We took a bus around the city and got to see a lot of things we haven’t made it to. There is a beautiful massive market in a park along the river, a massive memorial to soldiers killed in the wars, and an amusement park – completely with a smaller replica of the London Eye – up on top of the city near the old castle-thing.
We then met up with some other people from the embassy and went out for a traditional Georgian meal. We had the Georgian version of pelmini, pickled vegetables (including pickled burning nettles, which I hadn’t had before), khachipuri, a mixture of salads, and kebabs. Everything was Delicious We ate too much, of course, and then decided we should eat more. We went back to Old Town and ate gelato, running into quite a few embassy workers, all of whom were very nice. Then we ended the night with a night-cap at this chic little café at the end of Old Town. Overall, a really enjoyable day.
Now, we are headed off to the embassy for orientation and a reception. My bag is roaming the world somewhere and I am pretty much left with pajamas, so this is going to be interesting… Tomorrow, we head of too our respective cities and begin a new adventure!
Well, another day in Tbilisi. I woke up at noon, so I didn’t get out as early as I wanted, but am finally recovered. Met with some of the other Fulbrighters and Fellows for breakfast and got to know some of the new arrivals. Now everyone is here, and it seems to be a great group. Met Corrie, the English Fellow going to Gori with me, and she is a blast. Very sweet and a lot of fun. So yay!
After breakfast, a few of us took off to see the city. We walked down Rustavali, the major street in Tbilisi, Got to see some of the sights and went to a small market. The mix of beautiful, dilapidated old buildings and structures (And I mean old) and newer, also kind of dilapidated buildings is actually quite charming. Everything’s very beautiful and elegant. I wish I had more time here!
We met another person from the embassy and went shopping for phones. We took a bus around the city and got to see a lot of things we haven’t made it to. There is a beautiful massive market in a park along the river, a massive memorial to soldiers killed in the wars, and an amusement park – completely with a smaller replica of the London Eye – up on top of the city near the old castle-thing.
We then met up with some other people from the embassy and went out for a traditional Georgian meal. We had the Georgian version of pelmini, pickled vegetables (including pickled burning nettles, which I hadn’t had before), khachipuri, a mixture of salads, and kebabs. Everything was Delicious We ate too much, of course, and then decided we should eat more. We went back to Old Town and ate gelato, running into quite a few embassy workers, all of whom were very nice. Then we ended the night with a night-cap at this chic little café at the end of Old Town. Overall, a really enjoyable day.
Now, we are headed off to the embassy for orientation and a reception. My bag is roaming the world somewhere and I am pretty much left with pajamas, so this is going to be interesting… Tomorrow, we head of too our respective cities and begin a new adventure!
Saturday, September 11, 2010
Love at First Sight
I now believe in love at first sight. You see, I love Moscow. It will forever be one of my favorite cities. But I did not love it at first sight. I loved it at second sight. And third. And fourth. Tbilisi, however, is another story. I step off the plane after a decent flight. I met some great people, one of whom has lived in Georgia for the past nine years and was extremely helpful and full of useful information (He even let me use his address for my lost bag which is…somewhere.)
I meet up with the Embassy representative, get in the car, and off we go. I’m messing with my bag and my phone, etc. for a bit and then…then I look up. I have seen few things as beautiful as that first glimpse of Tbilisi. The city sits along a river and has multiple levels from where the water has worn away at the rocks. At the highest level is this old ruin and one of the oldest cathedrals in the world (Apparently it’s the oldest Orthodox one, or something.) We travel along the road – the river on one side, trees and old buildings on the other leading into Old Tbilisi. Which is old. Seriously.
It’s not perfect. Interspersed between the beautiful old buildings are random, worn-down, graffiti-laden Soviet building. Sidewalks are heaped with bits of brick and road so every step is a little leap of faith. But that’s what makes the city (what very, very little part of it I have seen) so fun. It has character. But it is beautiful enough that people don’t go running at first sight, as is often the case in, say, Moscow.
So we pull up to our hotel, and Caroline and Chase (the other Fulbrighters) are looking down at us from their balcony. I get my room and walk in to find a three room suite with a fireplace, Jacuzzi, and massive balcony. Not exactly some Soviet barracks. I drop my stuff off and we head to dinner. Along the way, we pass this beautiful cathedral where they just happen to be singing. We have a delicious dinner (Georgia’s version of “European” food) and then walk around the city for a bit. I took some pictures, which I will post. Be warned: it was dark and raining so they didn’t turn out all that well.
We then walked around for a while and, get this, people are Nice. Spooky, no? We went into a wine shop where they proceeded to let us taste every wine they had (yes, I exaggerate) and absolutely fawn over us because we can count to ten in Georgian. I’m not used to having people like me because I speak their language atrociously. I’m used to getting yelled at for not speaking it well enough. Oh! And we apparently went into this no trespassing area (they are building a crystal bridge – a la Moscow?) and got stopped by policemen. Who were nice! Cue scary music.
And now, we are back in my hotel room, drinking our fabulous Kakheti wine and listening to some people sing out on the street. I think I’m going to call it a night (36 hours awake, woohoo!) and see what tomorrow brings!
I meet up with the Embassy representative, get in the car, and off we go. I’m messing with my bag and my phone, etc. for a bit and then…then I look up. I have seen few things as beautiful as that first glimpse of Tbilisi. The city sits along a river and has multiple levels from where the water has worn away at the rocks. At the highest level is this old ruin and one of the oldest cathedrals in the world (Apparently it’s the oldest Orthodox one, or something.) We travel along the road – the river on one side, trees and old buildings on the other leading into Old Tbilisi. Which is old. Seriously.
It’s not perfect. Interspersed between the beautiful old buildings are random, worn-down, graffiti-laden Soviet building. Sidewalks are heaped with bits of brick and road so every step is a little leap of faith. But that’s what makes the city (what very, very little part of it I have seen) so fun. It has character. But it is beautiful enough that people don’t go running at first sight, as is often the case in, say, Moscow.
So we pull up to our hotel, and Caroline and Chase (the other Fulbrighters) are looking down at us from their balcony. I get my room and walk in to find a three room suite with a fireplace, Jacuzzi, and massive balcony. Not exactly some Soviet barracks. I drop my stuff off and we head to dinner. Along the way, we pass this beautiful cathedral where they just happen to be singing. We have a delicious dinner (Georgia’s version of “European” food) and then walk around the city for a bit. I took some pictures, which I will post. Be warned: it was dark and raining so they didn’t turn out all that well.
We then walked around for a while and, get this, people are Nice. Spooky, no? We went into a wine shop where they proceeded to let us taste every wine they had (yes, I exaggerate) and absolutely fawn over us because we can count to ten in Georgian. I’m not used to having people like me because I speak their language atrociously. I’m used to getting yelled at for not speaking it well enough. Oh! And we apparently went into this no trespassing area (they are building a crystal bridge – a la Moscow?) and got stopped by policemen. Who were nice! Cue scary music.
And now, we are back in my hotel room, drinking our fabulous Kakheti wine and listening to some people sing out on the street. I think I’m going to call it a night (36 hours awake, woohoo!) and see what tomorrow brings!
Greetings!
Greetings, friends!
First things first:
FULBRIGHT DISCLAIMER
The views and opinions expressed in this blog are the not views and opinions of the Fulbright Program or the United States Department of State. The views presented here are my own and do not represent the United States of America.
Okay. Now that the formalities are finished, welcome to my Georgia blog! No, not that Georgia. The other Georgia – the real Georgia. Tbilisi, not Atlanta.
For those of you who may not know me, my name is Hannah. I am a recent graduate of Stetson University where I majored in Russian Studies, Political Science, and International Business. I am a soon to be PhD student at the University of Wisconsin at Madison. I am currently a Fulbright ETA (English Teaching Assistant) to Gori, Georgia. I will be living in the country for the next nine months teaching English to Georgian school children.
This blog is a record of my adventures and activities in the country and a way to keep in touch with friends and family while abroad. Hopefully, it may also be some use to those who are visiting Georgia and a helpful guide to future Fulbrighters. Whatever the reason you are here for, I hope you will enjoy the blog and join me in my journey!
First, a little about Georgia:
The Republic of Georgia is a small country about the size of, well, Georgia (the American one) and with a population of four million. It is located south of Russian and east of Turkey and is part of the Caucasus. The people speak…Georgian (which is nothing like Russian), although many people speak Russian as it was once a part of the Soviet Union.
Georgia has an extremely long and rich history – Noah’s son, Thargamos supposedly settled around this area. Georgia was conquered and ruled by various groups until the 18th century, when Russia became the major power in the region. After the Russian revolution of 1917, Georgia briefly gained independence, only to later become a Soviet republic (yes, this is extremely simplified – this is a very interesting time period, so check it out in you are so inclined). In February 1990, Georgia declared itself an annexed state. It finally gained its independence in April 1991. In the early 2000s, Georgia went through an exchange of power known as the Rose Revolution and Saakashvili came to power.
In 2008, Georgia experienced another crisis when Russia occupied South Ossetia (a separatist region north of Georgia). As a result, relations between the two countries have been….ah, less than civil, shall we say. However, Georgia has quite friendly relations with the U.S. – they even named one of the main highways in Tbilisi, the capital, G.W. Bush. Go figure.
I will be living and working in Gori, a smallish town about 1.5 hours from the capital known mainly for being the birthplace of Stalin. Until this past summer, it was home to the only standing Stalin statue, which they have since removed. The population is officially 62,000, though this estimate is quite high as many people left after it was occupied by the Russians in 2008. (Gori is 5km from South Ossetia.)
And that, my dears, is Georgia. Sorry for the brevity. I’m currently flying over the Atlantic and am quite tired at the moment. But, hey, maybe it was enough to get you interested enough to look into the country on your own? No? Oh, well, I tried…
I land in Tbilisi on September 11th for a few days of fun, friends and, le sigh, work before I head to Gori to begin my real stay!
I’ll keep y’all posted as often as possible. If this turns out anything like my Moscow blog, that will be more than any of you will be interested in.
First things first:
FULBRIGHT DISCLAIMER
The views and opinions expressed in this blog are the not views and opinions of the Fulbright Program or the United States Department of State. The views presented here are my own and do not represent the United States of America.
Okay. Now that the formalities are finished, welcome to my Georgia blog! No, not that Georgia. The other Georgia – the real Georgia. Tbilisi, not Atlanta.
For those of you who may not know me, my name is Hannah. I am a recent graduate of Stetson University where I majored in Russian Studies, Political Science, and International Business. I am a soon to be PhD student at the University of Wisconsin at Madison. I am currently a Fulbright ETA (English Teaching Assistant) to Gori, Georgia. I will be living in the country for the next nine months teaching English to Georgian school children.
This blog is a record of my adventures and activities in the country and a way to keep in touch with friends and family while abroad. Hopefully, it may also be some use to those who are visiting Georgia and a helpful guide to future Fulbrighters. Whatever the reason you are here for, I hope you will enjoy the blog and join me in my journey!
First, a little about Georgia:
The Republic of Georgia is a small country about the size of, well, Georgia (the American one) and with a population of four million. It is located south of Russian and east of Turkey and is part of the Caucasus. The people speak…Georgian (which is nothing like Russian), although many people speak Russian as it was once a part of the Soviet Union.
Georgia has an extremely long and rich history – Noah’s son, Thargamos supposedly settled around this area. Georgia was conquered and ruled by various groups until the 18th century, when Russia became the major power in the region. After the Russian revolution of 1917, Georgia briefly gained independence, only to later become a Soviet republic (yes, this is extremely simplified – this is a very interesting time period, so check it out in you are so inclined). In February 1990, Georgia declared itself an annexed state. It finally gained its independence in April 1991. In the early 2000s, Georgia went through an exchange of power known as the Rose Revolution and Saakashvili came to power.
In 2008, Georgia experienced another crisis when Russia occupied South Ossetia (a separatist region north of Georgia). As a result, relations between the two countries have been….ah, less than civil, shall we say. However, Georgia has quite friendly relations with the U.S. – they even named one of the main highways in Tbilisi, the capital, G.W. Bush. Go figure.
I will be living and working in Gori, a smallish town about 1.5 hours from the capital known mainly for being the birthplace of Stalin. Until this past summer, it was home to the only standing Stalin statue, which they have since removed. The population is officially 62,000, though this estimate is quite high as many people left after it was occupied by the Russians in 2008. (Gori is 5km from South Ossetia.)
And that, my dears, is Georgia. Sorry for the brevity. I’m currently flying over the Atlantic and am quite tired at the moment. But, hey, maybe it was enough to get you interested enough to look into the country on your own? No? Oh, well, I tried…
I land in Tbilisi on September 11th for a few days of fun, friends and, le sigh, work before I head to Gori to begin my real stay!
I’ll keep y’all posted as often as possible. If this turns out anything like my Moscow blog, that will be more than any of you will be interested in.
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